Today we are supposed to be rock climbing, as Krabi is one of the best places in the world to do it. Unfortunately, halfway through the morning just before we go to get ready to rock climb, the rain starts pouring down. We post-pone until tomorrow and spend a lot of the day just Skyping friends from home and relaxing indoors.
It’s impossible to find good wi-fi on the islands. There is a restaurant at the bottom of the cliff up to our bungalow, which we visit every morning for breakfast. The owner will not give us the wi-fi password until we’ve ordered, and promptly shuts off the wi-fi when we’re done eating. We’ve gone there every morning and even stop in for lunch and snacks too, but he continues to cut our Internet usage short, so instead, we walk down to The Last Bar which is literally the last bar on the shore before a giant rocky cliff obstructs the pathway. This is where they hold the fire shows and dance music every night, but they also have a quiet restaurant for lunch and dinner. This is where we can contact home without an interrupted wi-fi connection… finally.
We plan to check out tomorrow and move onto Koh Phi Phi, which is where they filmed The Beach, with Leonardo DiCaprio, so that’s kinda cool.
I finally purchase some hair conditioner, and use it for the first time in a month. My hair has never felt so soft! Around 4pm we walk over to the other side of the beach for the sunset. I wade into the ocean where the water is cool and refreshing. On my left, I can see a massive cliff towering over the beach, and dipping it’s long jagged edges down into the sea. As the sun is approaching the horizon, I sit down on my towel in the sand and pull out my iPod. Ben Howard, Of Monsters and Men, Dallas Green, and Death Cab for Cutie echo in my ears as I sit, gazing out into the teal blue sea while the sounds of wild monkeys and rolling tides are still audible in the distance beyond my head phones. It’s one of those moments that you want to stay in forever, but know that you can’t, so you try your best to savour and appreciate as it passes.
We go back to the buffet for dinner, which is a mistake because it’s not as good as it was last night, but we walk away with bellies stuffed full of food anyway. We plan to go watch another movie, hoping that we can request The Beach, before we get to Koh Phi Phi. When we arrive they’re playing Ted again, which sucks, but they said they will play The Beach for us after the first movie is done so we hang around.
I order a Masala tea which takes about 45 minutes to arrive but when it does it’s worth it. I had seen The Beach many years ago, but basically forget everything that happens so I’m ready to watch it again. They show some clips of Khaosan Road, and beaches in the southern islands which is cool having now been there. Before the movie gets sad and weird, all it makes me want to do is find this island, even though it isn’t real. We have been planning to go visit Maya Beach, in Koh Phi Phi where the movie is filmed so I guess in some sense I will get to go, but it’s the adventure that makes me want to visit a place like this.
On our way back after the movie, we stop by a Thai Boxing fight. They LOVE boxing here and are constantly handing out flyers to promote different fights each night, so it’s good that I finally see one, I guess. The whole fighting-for-sport thing doesn’t appeal to me at all and we only stay for a short while.
Somehow, we end up back at the fire show for the third night in a row. It’s almost the same every time but it’s just SO cool to watch that I can’t help but enjoy it over and over again. After the show we dance for a bit and get a free bucket (they sell drinks in bucket form in Thailand) for being the first on the dance floor. Around 12:30 we leave to go swimming. We’ve read (and they also make reference to it in The Beach) that there are tiny phosphorous glowing plankton that swim on the west side of the beach. It sounds cool but I just want to swim beneath the stars, regardless of glowing mollusks or whatever. We walk over to the west side of the island and drop our stuff in a pile on the shore; we are the only people on the entire stretch of coastline. Little crabs run along the sand and dive into self-made caves below the surface as we walk towards the water. The beach is dark and the night sky is clear, sprinkled with stars all the way down to the horizon. There is a storm over the sea far out in the distance, so every now and then, just for a moment, a crash of lightning will light up the sky. We wade out into the dark and salty sea, and lay back, looking up at the sparkling night sky. I don’t think too much about these supposed phosphorous plankton, until I catch a glimpse of my arms in the water.
Words simply cannot describe how beautiful it is, but I will try. There are thousands of tiny blue lights in my hair and all around my body as I swim. The more I move the brighter they get. The water mimics the sky with twinkling lights all around us and I don’t know if I should look up, down, to my left and right at the towering rocky cliffs on each side of the shore, or off at the horizon where the crashes of lightning illuminate the sky in a light purple hue. It’s an incredible feeling to be surrounded by such absolute beauty, and I wish I could explain it better, but there really are no words.
I don’t know how long we stay, but no amount of time would ever feel like enough.